Get A Green Lawn…

Naturally!

Some of Best Things You Can Do

Watering
Your lawn will do its best when it is watered less often and for longer periods of time. Deep watering promotes deep root growth. This in turn allows your lawn to endure dry periods and makes it more resistant to damaging insects and disease. Deeper roots also allow for a more efficient use of nutrients in the soil.

Experts recommend that you only water your lawn once or twice per week but for longer periods of time. Generally, a grass lawn needs about 1 1/2" to 2" of water per week during the growing season. Using an empty tuna can or a rain gauge (available at most hardware stores or nurseries), measure the amount of water being placed on your lawn by your sprinkler system and, of course, rain. Watering may have to be increased or decreased depending on soil conditions, shade, sun, rain and the type of grass. If a lawn doesn't spring back within an hour or two after being walked on, it probably needs to be watered.

If you’re still not sure if your lawn needs watering, check with some experts. The Northeast Regional Climate Center at Cornell University has established a Lawn Watering Input Web site at www.nrcc.cornell.edu/water. You simply enter your zip code and the date you last watered, and click “Submit” to get a fast answer. The web site checks the nearest airport weather station to your zip code and gives a recommendation of “no need to water today” or “add __ inches of water”. If you receive the recommendation to water, there is an added help to determine the amount of watering time you require based on your sprinkler application rate. Try it!

Homeowners with in-ground sprinkler systems should set their sprinkler system timer (or ask your contractor to do this) to water once or twice per week for longer periods of time. Many in-ground sprinkler systems are set to water every day for 20 to 30 minutes. This is detrimental to your lawn as it promotes shallow root growth, results in inefficient use of soil nutrients, and may lead to the greater use of fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. If you are contemplating installing an in ground sprinkler system, we strongly recommend that you use a contractor who is certified by the Irrigation Association as they are trained in the design and installation of in ground irrigation systems (www.irrigation.org).

Regardless of the manner in which you water your lawn, watering is best done when the sun is low in the sky to minimize evaporation and when there is minimal wind to avoid drifting. Watering in this manner will also reduce the amount of water you use overall. If you water once or twice per week, you can water your lawn in the late afternoon so that your lawn can dry out before the evening. Watering later in the day will also give your system better performance, as our system pressures are higher at this time of the day.

Conservation - Any discussion of lawn and garden watering without discussing conservation techniques would be irresponsible. Long Island is blessed with an abundant supply of water in its aquifer system but we must all use this precious resource responsibly. When watering, be certain that your sprinklers are set to only water your lawns and gardens and not the street or driveway to your home. Only put down as much water as is needed and use a rain gauge as previously described.

Odd/Even Watering - With the proliferation of in-ground sprinkler systems, many set to begin watering at 3 - 6 a.m., the time at which many households are beginning their day, we have found that our system pressures drop significantly. If you were to turn on all of the faucets in your home and flush the toilets at the same time, you would notice a significant drop in water pressure, especially if you attempted to shower. This is analogous to what we experience in the early hours of the morning in our system. This has a direct effect upon your in-ground sprinkler system. To maximize the efficiency of your sprinkler system on the one or two days per week that you water, consider watering in the late afternoon and follow the Odd/Even Rule. If your home number ends in an odd number, water on odd numbered days. If your home number ends in an even number, water on even numbered days. If our customers follow this simple rule, system pressures will improve and water will be conserved. But remember, water less often and for longer periods of time.

Rain Sensors Make Sense!

Automatic sprinkler system controllers are programmed to go on and off on a certain day and at a certain time. The controller does not know if it is sunny and dry outside or raining. For this reason every lawn sprinkler system should have a rain sensor.

The rain sensor determines whether enough rainfall has occurred in order to skip an irrigation cycle. There are three basic types of rain sensors. They all serve the same purpose: keeping your system from over-watering the turf or your garden.

How does it do that? The electrical connection between the sensor and your sprinkler system controller is interrupted when a certain amount of rain triggers the device. The sensor breaks the electrical connection so that electricity cannot flow to either the sprinkler valves or to a pump start (if your system is on a well without a pressure tank).

One type breaks the connection by weighing the water in a rainfall collection cup. The problem with this type of sensor is that leaves, sticks or other debris will find its way into the collection cup and therefore turn off the system.

The next type uses electrodes to determine how much water is in the collection cup. This kind of rain sensor device also has a problem because things other than rainfall end up in the collection cup.

The most common type of rain sensor used by professionals is the expansion disk device. This kind of sensor does not use a collection cup; instead, rainfall causes cork disks to expand. This device uses a pressure switch to break the electrical connection. These can be adjusted in increments of ¼” to the desired rainfall setting. This adjustment is usually set to turn off the sprinklers after ½” of rain has fallen.

The most important aspect of installing a rain sensor is where to place it. It should be installed in an area that is unobstructed by trees, roof over hangs, or anything else that might block rain from getting to the sensor. If it is a wired sensor, placement is generally near the sprinkler controller. The wires should be connected inside the controller’s valve wiring panel. This allows for easier electrical trouble-shooting of the system as the sensor can be easily disconnected.

In the last few years, wireless rain sensors have become very popular. Although they are more expensive than the wired devices, the ease of installation and increased placement options offset the cost. Most wireless units come with by-pass switches built into the device. Some digital controllers also offer by-pass options for both wired devices and wireless rain sensors.

No matter the type of rain sensor you choose, all rain sensors offer many advantages over not adding this detector to your automatic sprinkler system. Some of the immediate and long-term benefits include:

• Saves Money. Whether you pay for SCWA water or spend electricity running a pump, the money you save over time will more than pay for the rain sensor.

• Extends Sprinkler System Life Span. Irrigation systems are made up of moving parts. If the system parts are utilized less frequently (during the rainy season), they last longer.

• Protects Water Resources. By limiting the over use of your sprinkler system, rain sensors reduce excess water run-off that carries fertilizers and pest control chemicals into our shared water supply.

• Conserves Water. Less water is wasted when less supplemental water is needed for your turf and in your garden.

How much money can you save with a rain sensor device?
Here is one example that demonstrates the benefits listed above:

• The average 5-zone sprinkler system puts down roughly 9,000 gallons per irrigation cycle.

• At a cost of $1.46 per thousand gallons, every time a rain sensor on this system interrupts a sprinkler cycle, it would save $13.14.

• If the sensor stops the system from over watering ten times per season, it results in a $131.40 savings. Plus it makes for a healthier lawn.

The next time you see a sprinkler system running in the rain, you now know it does not have to be that way. Rain sensors conserve our water, protect our water resources and save you money.

Those are the best things you can do for a healthy lawn.

Fertilizers, Pesticides, and Herbicides

The Suffolk County Water Authority has partnered with the Long Island Groundwater Research Institute (LIGRI) at the State University of New York at Stony Brook (www.msrc.sunysb.edu/LIGRI). to scientifically study the effects of nitrogen applications (fertilizers) and their resultant byproduct, nitrates, on our groundwater. Over the past several years, we have begun to see an increase in nitrates in certain areas of our service territory. These nitrates are thought to be the result of past farming techniques and septic systems. While all of the water we deliver to our customers meets the stringent water standards for nitrates (and all other water quality requirements), what is not known at this time are the effects of lawn fertilizers on our groundwater. Nitrates can be removed from affected groundwater, but it is an extremely expensive process.

This study will look at the effects of "natural" or slow release organic fertilizers and organic lawn care techniques versus the effects of a typical chemical fertilizer program, which typically includes herbicides and pesticides, found in most home and gardening centers.

In general, we strongly encourage our customers to not indiscriminately use fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides around their homes. Not only is there the potential to contaminate our groundwater, but also careless use of such products could cause harm to family members, pets, and wildlife.

A good rule to follow is to avoid the use of pesticides and herbicides whenever possible. If your lawn has a few weeds, you can leave them and just consider them part of your lawn, or you can pull the weeds by hand or other mechanical means. If weeds are only located in part of your lawn and you feel you must use an herbicide, spot treat the area rather than the entire lawn. Follow label instructions very carefully; wear protective gloves, clothing, and eye protection, and keep family members and pets away from the area for the time prescribed on the product label. Store such products securely in their original container out of the reach of children.

Seed all bare spots and consider applying grass seed to your existing lawn during the cooler weather. September is a good time. Applying seed to an existing lawn is referred to as over-seeding and it helps to thicken up your lawn. Thick turf helps prevent weeds from taking hold.

Consider the use of non-toxic products. If your lawn has damage resulting from insects, look for products that will address the unwanted insects in a natural or non-toxic way. For instance, using milky spores can treat Japanese Beetle grubs. This product, which is now widely available, is applied once to your lawn can last for years. Many other non-toxic lawn care products are on the market and many more become available each year as consumer demand for such products grows. In fact, a number of garden centers in Suffolk County now feature only non-toxic and organic products. The Neighborhood Network (www.longislandnn.org). has a wealth of information on non-toxic lawn care alternatives, organic products, and retailers carrying these products. In addition, they sponsor organic gardening seminars periodically.

Generally speaking, the problem with "four bag" chemical fertilizer products is that pesticides and herbicides are included with the fertilizer and are therefore applied to the lawn whether they are needed or not. Furthermore, these types of products are high in nitrogen content that green the lawn up quickly and cause a spurt in growth, but do not contain the inorganic matter found in many organic fertilizers that help to condition the soil and naturally support healthy grass plant growth. As a result, this type of lawn is more dependent on regular fertilizer feedings.

In contrast to the high nitrogen and chemical fertilizer programs, there are a number of low nitrogen, slow release fertilizer products available that work quite well. These organic products, and organic supplements, condition your soil to support plant growth in a non-toxic fashion. It typically takes two to three years for a lawn to "go organic" and to see the fruits of your labor, but it is well worth the wait for you, your family, and our environment.

Most important, remember to water less often but for longer periods of time, cut your lawn at 3" or higher in height, and mulch/mow. These three steps will give you a healthier lawn that needs less pesticides and herbicides and will still look great.

Hiring A Grounds Maintenance Contractor

Many homeowners prefer to have a landscaper care for their lawn and gardens. When hiring a landscaper, consider one who uses natural organic techniques. If hiring a non-organic landscaper, especially if chemical applications of fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides will be made, we strongly recommend that you hire a landscaper who is certified and licensed by the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation to apply chemical products. Certified pesticide and herbicide applicators have received training in the prescribed application of the chemicals on your lawn.

For additional information go to "Cornell Extension Gardening Facts".